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INSIDE SURFACTANTS | Hale and Hush

“INSIDE SURFACTANTS | Hale and Hush ” –  Surfactant Cleanser Examples Mackadet DA (INCI: Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate (and) Sodium Cocoamphoacetate (and) Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine) is a product of Solvay. EcoSense 1200 (INCI: Lauryl Glucoside) is a product of Dow Chemical Company. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) TEA Lauryl Sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) The term surfactant is a shortened form of the phrase surface active ingredient. A surfactant is categorized as a compound that will lower the surface tension between two other factors. This could be lowering the interfacial tension between a liquid and a solid, a liquid and a gas, or even a liquid and another liquid. An example of this would be mixing oil and water in a skincare product. As we know, oil and water do not dissolve when combined, so a surfactant will then be added to a formulation to keep it from separating into layers of ingredients. Most people think this only pertains to ingredients that foam or cleanse. However, surfactants can also be in the following beauty products: emulsifiers in creams and lotions, conditioning agents in skin and hair care products, and solubilizers for perfumes and flavors. Learning the various types of surfactants and some common names helps us understand why these ingredients are used in a formula, but also why maybe a particular product is or is not working for your client and their skincare concerns. Cleansing and Foaming Surfactants as cleansing agents found in soaps and shampoos will draw the oil and dirt to the surfactant. As the surfactant is rinsed away from hair or skin, the surfactant is removed from the surface with oil/ dirt trapped inside. Consumers tend to believe that if a product foams a lot, then it cleans the skin better; however, it is more of an aesthetic property than having the ability to clean the skin more effectively. There are also several products in the marketplace, such as cleansers and shampoos, that are already in a foaming form. The surfactant in the foaming agent of these types of products allows it to remain as foam as opposed to collapsing back into liquid form. Just remember, that even though it is in a foaming state, that does not mean it has any cleansing ability. An example of this would be topical medications or steroids that do not foam but offer a different type of application versus internal or a cream/ointment. After cleansing the skin, most of the surfactant gets rinsed off, but sometimes not all of it. There are some surfactants that can bind to proteins of the skin, which in turn, can cause them to swell and/or change 50 September 2021 © Skin Inc. www.SkinInc.com shape. This will then cause the skin to become irritated. Lately in skincare, many try to use a mixture of surfactants rather than just one aggressive, potentially Spotlight: Sulfates One subject that is a popular topic in the personal care market is “sulfate or non- sulfate” surfactants. Sulfate-free surfactants cost more than lauryl/laureth sulfates. The cost can be the production of actual ingredients involved or the binding process of these sulfate-free surfactants. Sulfate-free products tend to lather; however, maybe not at the intense aesthetic experience of overflowing bubble-like sulfated products. As mentioned above, more foam does not equate to better cleansing. This is something that the skincare professional should explain to clients when choosing these cleansers. Some think they need to use more products, but this is not necessary, as the thickening of non-sulfate surfactants tends to make the formula more concentrated. In other words, “less is more.” www.SkinInc.com September 2021 © Skin Inc. 51 irritating one to the skin barrier and its function. Many ingredient suppliers are working to strategically mix surfactants from large micelles, which in turn, reduces irritation and inflammation. When a micelle in a formula is too small, it will aggravate the skin. Emulsifiers Surfactants as emulsifiers are used in skincare in a variety of creams and lotions. Most people would prefer that their skincare products have a uniform texture instead of all oil or layers of water and oil bases. Mixes of oil and water, emulsions are typically semi-stable so the oil and water do not separate. This makes for good spreadability of products and better absorption in the skin. Consumers sometimes say that they apply moisturizer, and their skin feels dry shortly after the application. Sometimes this is due to the types of emulsifiers in the products. The product will initially go on in a smooth manner and skin will feel hydrated, but sometimes the emulsifier used will create only the illusion of hydration temporarily. Some dimethicones and silicones are cosmetically elegant; however, the barrier created makes it difficult for the skin to “breathe” and actives to penetrate. Ultra-sensitive clients should look for emulsifying-free options or low use of dimethicone-like emulsifiers, as they can be more irritating to that particular skin type. When looking for options more emulsifier-free, look for physiological lipids that may mimic the lipid component of skin like essential fatty acids (EFAs), phospholipids, and certain ceramides. Conditioning Agents Skincare and hair care products also use surfactants as conditioners. Conditioning surfactants can include “leave-on” skin and hair conditioners. If used in a hair conditioner, for example, the surfactants give hair a smooth touch or feel as it leaves. After using a hair conditioner, the product remains on the hair, giving it a smooth feel due to the lipophilic (oily) portion of the molecule. A large number of surfactants used as conditioning agents are categorized as cationic surfactants. Cationic Emulsifi er Examples Glyceryl stearate PEG-100 stearate Stearyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Laureth-23 Steareth Alcohol Cetyl/PEG/PPG 10 Dimethicone Phosphatidylcholine Phytosterols Stearic Acid Surfactants are not just found in foaming products. 52 September 2021 © Skin Inc. www.SkinInc.com surfactants are quaternary ammonium species or “quats,” which hold a permanent cationic charge independent of solution pH. Environmental toxicity has become an increasing concern with quaternary ammonium surfactants because they demonstrate strong potential for aquatic toxicity and environmental persistence. Additionally, quats are not possible to manufacture as 100% plant-derived compositions because the quaternary ammonium head groups require some petrochemical-derived carbon content.1 Since quats have become controversial in recent years, ingredient manufacturers are looking for “greener” versions to be made available as an option. Solubilizers Surfactants are used as solubilizers to solubilize (make a substance dissolvable or emulsifiable) small amounts of oil or oil-soluble ingredients (essential or INSIDE SURFACTANTS fragrance oils) into mostly watery concoctions (toners or hand washes), and to add water-soluble properties to anhydrous products (cleansing oil or bath bomb). A good example would be vitamin E (tocopherol), as it is generally oilier in nature. To put this ingredient in a toner or water-based product, you would need a surfactant used as a solubilizer to incorporate into the formula, so the two ingredients do not separate. As mentioned above, surfactants can be used to allow for essential oils to be included in products like washes, toners, and mists. When using surfactants for this purpose, we need to consider sensitive skin. More and more clients are classifying themselves with sensitive skin for a variety of reasons. When trying to determine where their sensitivity is coming from, one should consider the type of fragrance being used in the product that is causing irritation. If a product is using essential oil to provide the fragrance, that could be the issue or possibly it could be the surfactant being used to infuse the oil aesthetically into the product. At times, some detective work may be needed on the professionals’ part as well as recommending a dermatologist/allergist. Conditioning Agent Examples Behentrimonium Chloride (quat) Distearyldimonium Chloride (quat) Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate Solubilizer Examples Hydrogenated Castor Oil Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 80 Water Soluble Shea Butter Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Coco/Isostearamide Surfactants are used to add water-soluble properties to anhydrous products. www.SkinInc.com September 2021 © Skin Inc. 53 Kris Campbell is a licensed esthetician who has been actively involved in the professional skincare industry since 2004. She created Hale & Hush, the only professional skincare line to focus exclusively on sensitive skin. Campbell is respected as a prominent writer, speaker, and educator in the skincare industry. Are Surfactants Good or Bad? I spoke with John Stanek, director of marketing and product development for CoValence Laboratories about good and bad surfactants. I have learned a lot about not categorizing good or bad, as each individual and each company should look at surfactants ingredients and uses to determine their own view. “Regarding the morality of surfactants, we do not categorize raw materials as good or bad because neither term is codified,” says Stanek. “Further, applying adjectives like good/bad to raw materials presents a risk because the concept is based on the perspective of individual brands, retail channels or consumers (versus an evidence-based approach).” In professional skincare and in over-the-counter skincare for that matter, surfactants are everywhere in our products. Learning more about the sources of those surfactants and understanding the reason they are in the product will be important to some but not others. If you have a clientele that is sensitive to these ingredients or find this information important, start questioning your brand manufacturer as to what, where, and why they use certain ingredients. Besides asking the manufacturer, you should also do a little research to look at the makeup of ingredients and the potential positives and negatives of each. Be sure to create a good intake form that asks questions of your client as to whether they have any ingredient allergies or have been known to get irritated when using certain types of skincare or cleaning solutions. Only with this education will you be able to determine which brands to use for your clients, as well as giving yourself peace of mind

 

From: https://www.haleandhush.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/SkinInc_0921_InsideSurfactants.pdf

By: Kris Campbell

Link: https://www.haleandhush.com/

What is deep tissue massage?

What is deep-tissue massage?

Deep tissue massage is a massage technique that’s mainly used to treat musculoskeletal issues, such as strains and sports injuries. It involves applying sustained pressure using slow, deep strokes to target the inner layers of your muscles and connective tissues. This helps to break up scar tissue that forms following an injury and reduce tension in muscle and tissue.

It may also promote faster healing by increasing blood flow and reducing inflammation.

Read on to learn more about deep tissue massage, including how it stacks up against Swedish massage and what to expect during a session.

What are the benefits of deep tissue massage?

Deep tissue massage offers both physical and psychological benefits. Unlike other massage techniques that focus on relaxation, deep tissue massage helps to treat muscle pain and improve stiffness. But it can still help to you unwind mentally, too.

A 2014 study involving 59 participants found that deep tissue massage helped to reduce pain in people with chronic low back. The authors likened its effects to those of nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, such as ibuprofen (Advil).

People have also reported that deep tissue massage helps with:

How does it compare to Swedish massage?

Deep tissue massage and Swedish massage are two different types of massage therapy. Both use some of the same strokes, but they have different uses and vary greatly when it comes to the amount of pressure used.

Here are the key differences between deep tissue massage and Swedish massage:

  • Intended use. Deep tissue massage is primarily used to treat chronic pain and muscle and sports-related injuries. Swedish massage is mainly used to promote relaxation and reduce muscle tension caused by everyday activities, such as sitting at a computer.
  • Pressure. Swedish massage is a gentler form of massage that uses far less tension than deep tissue massage. Both types involve use of the palms and fingers to knead and manipulate your tissues, but the elbows and forearms may also be used to apply increased pressure during a deep tissue massage.
  • Area of focus. Deep tissue massage targets the inner layers of your muscles. It’s used to treat muscle and tendon injuries, pain, and stiffness in your major muscle groups and joints. Swedish massage targets the superficial layers of muscle and focuses on the parts of your body that tend to hold the most tension, such as your neck, shoulders, and back.

What happens during the massage?

Before your deep tissue massage, your massage therapist will want to know about your problem areas. A deep tissue massage can involve your entire body or just one area.

Once ready, you’ll be asked to lie on your back or stomach, under a sheet. Your level of undress is based on your comfort, but the area being worked on will need to be exposed.

The massage therapist will warm up your muscles using a lighter touch. Once you’re warmed up, they’ll start working on your problem areas. They’ll use deep kneading and stroking with varying amounts of intense pressure.

Are there any side effects?

It’s not unusual to have some lingering soreness for a few days following a deep tissue massage. Using a heating pad or a cold pack wrapped in a towel may help to relieve soreness.

Though massage therapy is generally safe, deep tissue massage uses very firm pressure and may not be safe for everyone.

Speak to your doctor before having a deep tissue massage if you:

  • have a history of blood clots or a clotting disorder
  • are taking blood thinners
  • have a bleeding disorder
  • have cancer or are undergoing cancer treatment, such as chemotherapy or radiation

Anyone with osteoporosis or cancer that’s spread to the bones should avoid deep tissue massage as the firm pressure used may cause a fracture. You should also hold off on deep tissue massages if you’re pregnant. Gentler types of massage, such as Swedish massage, maybe a better option.

If you have an open wound or skin infection of any kind, you’ll need to reschedule to avoid developing new infection or making an existing one worse.

How do I find a therapist?

If you want to try a deep tissue massage, it’s important to work with a qualified massage therapist.

To find a massage therapist:

  • ask your doctor or physical therapist for a referral
  • ask friends and family for a recommendation
  • search the National Certification Board for Therapeutic Massage & Bodywork’s database
  • use the America Massage Therapy Association’s database

As you sort through potential massage therapists, keep a few things in mind:

  • Area of focus. Not all massage therapists specialize in deep tissue massage. Some are trained in several types while others focus their practice on one or two. Be sure to ask if they offer deep tissue massage and what conditions they have experience treating.
  • Cost. Ask about the cost per session and whether they offer cost-saving incentives, such as a sliding-scale option. You might also want to check with your health insurance provider, as some cover massage therapy, especially for specific conditions.
  • Credentials. Ask for credentials and make sure that the therapist is licensed to practice massage therapy in your area. In the United States, most states regulate the massage therapy profession.

The bottom line

Deep tissue massage is best suited for people who engage in highly physical activities, such as running or those who have an injury or chronic pain. If you have a low pain threshold or are looking for relief of tense muscles, Swedish massage is gentler and may be a better option. Speak to your doctor before trying deep tissue massage if you have an underlying medical condition.

Massage Therapy for Skiers

Whether you are a local with a season pass, or in town for a winter vacation, after the first few days hitting the slopes the inevitable soreness and achiness in the muscles and body begin to set in. Skiing, no matter your skill level, is an extreme sport. Hard falls, high speeds, and rough terrain all combine to make skiing and snowboarding a highly intense winter activity. Skiing engages your full body and all of its muscle groups, and while it’s a great workout, there’s a lot of opportunity for injury as well.

Much of the injury that may occur from skiing is due to wear and tear on the body. Most injuries will be bruises, as well as sore and pulled muscles. The joints are usually in the most danger of being injured more seriously. According to the National Ski Areas Association (NSAA) knee injuries alone account for about 45% of all serious skiing injuries, with hips being the next for the highest chance of injury. Moguls, sharp inclines, and turns can wreak havoc on the joints of a skier over time.

The best way to avoid injury during the ski season is through preventative measures. Along with having properly fitted gear (and of course, always a helmet), it’s important your body and mind are prepared as well. Keeping up with a healthy, athletic lifestyle in the offseason will ensure your body is ready for ski season. Be sure to get some good stretching in before and after a day on the slopes. In addition to keeping your body in shape, keeping a relaxed and focused mind will also benefit your performance on the slopes. In the event of injury, acting quickly is key. Being sure to rest, ice injuries, keep injuries elevated, and seek professional medical help when needed will help protect against further damage and injury.

Massage Therapy for Skiers

In addition to leading an active healthy lifestyle, purchasing the best equipment, and taking care of an injury in a timely manner, all skiers beginner to professional should consider adding massage therapy to their arsenal of injury prevention and treatment methods. Massage therapy both before and after skiing will help ensure you shred the slopes, not your body.

Massage therapy plays a vital role in sports medicine. Massage therapy benefits the body by helping to increase blood flow, oxygenate the muscles, and improve lymphatic drainage, and aid in the removal of toxins from the body. Massage therapy can greatly assist full-body recovery as well as strengthening the muscles for future physical activity.

Using massage as a preventative measure before skiing can help reduce your risk of injury this ski season. Getting a massage before hitting the mountain will release tension in the body, relax and elongate the muscles and improve flexibility, taking stress off the joints. A relaxing massage will also help promote a clear, relaxed mind, keeping you focused and aware of your surroundings during your runs.

Scheduling an après ski massage will help aid your body’s recovery process and prevent future injury. Working out muscles kinks, improving circulation, and draining toxins will reduce inflammation, shorten muscle recovery time, and ease soreness. A post-ski massage will help you unwind after a long day skiing, and promote deeper relaxation and better sleep so you’ll be ready to go again the following day.

“Massage Therapy for Skiers”
Resouce Post: https://kneadinghandstherapy.com/benefits-of-massage-therapy-for-skiers/

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